How To Make Your Own Wooden Bird Feeder
January 21, 2012 | 
Author You can make your wooden bird feeder as simple or extravagant as you desire, according to your level of expertise. Those who are more adept with the tools of woodworking, may want to try their hand at making a wooden castle bird feeder. The idea behind this is to have all the stools on each side of the castle manufactured so as to stick out for the birds to eat their food out of. Or maybe you consider yourself to be talented enough to make a tube that spirals around, having a trough for the birds to snack away at. However, if you are not so talented and have never built one before, you may want to start with a simple step-by-step design.
You could try starting with a simple wooden tray feeder, where you just glue and nail a few pieces of wood together. As you become more experienced in constructing your wooden bird feeders, you’ll be able to experiment a bit more until you feel confident enough to make the bigger feeders that call for a lot more talent and patience. As a child, perhaps you may have built your very first wooden tray feeders in wood shop. On the other hand, if you weren’t fortunate enough to take the class you may have built your own bird feeder at home using a soda bottle or a coffee can. I can remember, back when I was a child, taking the empty coffee can, filling it up with my dad’s sunflower seeds and hanging it from a tree just to watch the birds come to the yard Endless hours of pleasure!
Check out this quick and easy way to make a simple wooden tray feeder. Please keep in mind that if you are a child you will need adult supervision.
MAKING A WOODEN TRAY BIRD FEEDER
4 pieces of wood about 2 inches wide
1 square piece of wood
Nails
Use the square piece of wood as the base for your wooden tray feeder. Now take your four pieces of wood and prop them up on all sides of the square. Hammer each strip to the base until you have a small square dish with sides. Insert a newspaper into the base, making sure to flatten it down properly so it doesn’t fly out. Pour in the seeds and you are set to go. On top of a large post or table would be a great place to position your tray.
Children love building bird feeders as well. Once they spot you making one they’ll naturally want to do something to help. Try giving them a pine cone, butter knife and some peanut butter and have them spread it all over the pine cone. When finished, have them sprinkle seeds all over it. They’ll be happy that they got to make a bird feeder too.
Hopper feeders are little wooden bird feeders that look like houses; birds love these because they keep the wind and rain off them.
When caring for your wooden bird feeders always remember that you need to empty them of food every night, unless you can somehow cover them. Rain can ruin bird seeds and make birds extremely sick, and I’m sure that’s the last thing you want.
Bird watching has always been, and always will be, a fun hobby. By building your own wooden bird feeders, you can make this a time full of memories for you and your children.
Decide what type of feeder you’ll use and where in the yard it will go. Location is a key item when it comes to wooden bird feeders. If you don’t have it in the right place the birds may never find it.
Wheelchair Ramps – How to Construct Them Within the ADA Specifications
Wheelchair ramps are a statutory necessity in building construction. The American with Disabilities Act of 1990 (ADA) gives construction specifications of wheelchair ramps. These ramps enable disabled persons and patients to move into and out of buildings without undergoing undue difficulties. Hence, construction of wheelchair ramps to ADA specifications is mandatory. A few construction consultants recommend long-tread lower-riser steps. These long-tread lower-riser steps are safer and easier, compared to a 1:12 slope ramp due to a stronger ground grip. However, the wheelchair has to be tilted back a little, lifting the front wheels to provide enough clearance to negotiate the riser. As such, they are useful mostly for attendant-propelled wheelchairs.
A sloping route constructed with a slope greater than 1:20 is considered a ramp in ADA specifications. The ADA plans for wheelchair ramps are detailed in the schedules and appendices. The ease of using a ramp depends on the slope as well as the length of the ramp. Normally, ramp slopes in the range of 1:16 to 1:20 are preferred. Most wheelchair users can manage a slope of 1:16. However, a slope of 1:12 for a distance of about 30-ft. would be very difficult for disabled persons using wheelchairs. As such, the least possible slope has to be used in the construction of the ramp. Construction or alteration below the stipulated requirements is not permitted.
The ramps must have level landings both at the bottom and at the top of each ramp. To comply with ADA specifications of building wheelchair ramps, the landings must be as wide as the ramp leading into the landing. The minimum landing length has to be 60 inches. If there is a direction change of the ramp, the minimum landing size has to be 60 inches by 60 inches. Ramps and landings with drop-offs must be protected with curbs, railings, walls or projected surfaces to protect users from slipping off the ramp. Outdoor ramps and landings should be planned for complete water drain to avoid slipping on wet surface.
Handrails with a maximum height of 28 inches from the ramp surface to the top of the rail surface would be advisable. To assist children, a second set of handrails in between the top rail and the ramp surface has to be provided. The ramp should be constructed with handrails on both sides, if the ramp has a rise greater than 6 inches. The gripping surface of the rail has to be continuous. The ends of handrails should be rounded or joined to wall or post or floor to avoid injury to users.
Specifications of ADA require that the slope of a ramp should be one inch or lesser for every 12 inches of ramp run. ADA further specifies that the wheelchair ramp surfaces must be hard, stable and regular. Soft loose surfaces and irregular surfaces that could impede wheelchair movement have to be avoided. Carpets, loose sand or gravel and wet clay are normally considered soft loose surfaces. Cobblestones and the like are treated as irregular surfaces. Pressure treated wheelchair ramps are the most suitable method of ramp construction.
ADA recommends a static friction coefficient of more than 0.5 for surfaces used by normal persons. On the other hand, the static friction coefficient recommended for ramps is 0.8 to assist disabled persons using wheelchairs from slipping. Pressure treated wheelchair ramps would normally conform to the ADA guidelines of slip resistant surfaces.
The do-it-yourself wheelchair ramps are usually made of steel. They are modular in design for easy use by wheelchair persons. The ramp is normally of steel mesh type so that water and snow do not stagnate on the ramp. These ramps are available both with handrails on both sides or without handrails. The standard widths offered vary from 30 inches to 60 inches. Lengths are determined by the needs of the user. Steel turning landings are also available with sizes of 4 ft. by 4 ft. and 5 ft. by 5 ft.
Wheelchair ramps for GMC Safari as well as GMC Safari vans fitted with ramps for use by disabled persons and patients are available from several van dealers in most American cities. GMC Safari vans with wheelchair ramps can be purchased for prices ranging from $6,000 to $25,000, depending on the model of the GMC Safari and its condition.
Your Front Door – Designing The Entry To Your Home
Here’s a subject that’s rarely given enough thought in custom home design…the way you enter and leave your house. We’re just talking about a door, right? A hole in the wall, a way in and a way out; what more is there to consider?
It’s easy to overlook the design of the entrance to our houses. We spend our time working on the design of the exterior and creating the spaces inside the house. But the front door and the spaces connected to it occupy an important middle ground between indoors and out and set the stage for the success of the entire custom home design. The entry begins to establish your home’s personality and suggests how the rest of the house should be. The entry is a symbolic passage from the public realm of the street to the private realm of the family and tells the world something about the people within.
If Walls Could Speak
It’s a cliché to say that the front of a house “makes a statement”, but clichés usually have some basis in truth. The entry can be a barrier or an invitation, obvious or concealed, pompous or humble; it can welcome you in or it can keep you at arm’s length. The front door and the area around it can be a message board for the neighborhood – hung with wreaths and ivy during the holidays, festooned with red, white, and blue on the Fourth of July, and decorated with pumpkins and corn shocks at Halloween.
Each element that makes up the home’s entry has something to say. The classic American front porch is a good example; it’s the outdoor social center, a place to watch the activity of the street, a place to meet and greet neighbors and friends. A front porch is an outdoor room, neither completely public nor private and easing the transition into and out of the house. A house with a big, broad front porch tells the world that the family inside values the social fabric of the street, welcoming neighbors and friends and inviting them to stop and visit.
The Entry Sequence
But the front porch is just one part of a sequence of spaces and elements creating a transition from the public realm (the street) to the private realm (the house). That sequence includes walks, landscaping, steps, porches, overhangs, lights, doors, and interior entry spaces. A successful entry sequence considers the placement and design of all of these elements and their relationship to each other.
The entry to a home begins long before you’ve stepped onto the property. It starts in the street with the initial visual cues — where the entrance to the property is, and where the entrance to the house is.
At first glance from the street, the entry to the house should be seen or at least hinted at to provide a clear destination for our guests. Our old friend the front porch is a great way to indicate clearly where the entrance is to be found. A porch or overhang at the entry also keeps your guests out of the weather while they’re waiting for you to answer the door.
A path from the street or driveway to the front door should be direct – people look ahead subconsciously as they approach a building, searching for the shortest path to the entrance. The beginning of the path should be well lit so that it can be found in the dark, and should be wide enough for two people to walk comfortably abreast. This is also a great place for colorful landscaping. In temperate and cold climates, leave areas open where shoveled snow can be piled alongside the walk without burying the planting beds.
A little mystery isn’t a bad idea here either – vary the direction of the path a bit so the scenery changes and the front door moves in and out of view.
It’s A House, Not A Greek Temple
Historically, the design of a home’s entry gave the public an indication of the wealth and status of its owners. The entrances to grand homes are often flanked by huge classical columns, their doors framed by elaborately carved surrounds. But when more modest homes take up these motifs, they often feel out of place and forced. An entry can be too easily seen from the street, announcing itself too boldly (as if it were an entrance to an office building), and draining all of the warmth from the entry sequence.
Better to design the entry on a human scale, using familiar elements that don’t overwhelm the visitor. Benches, small windows, potted plants, brick paths and porch railings all contribute to the comfort we want our guests to feel as they are welcomed into our homes.
The human scale should continue on the other side of the door. Although some larger homes are appropriately fitted with double curved stairs and four hundred square foot entry halls, these features overwhelm a typical family home. Entry halls and foyers should welcome guests, allow them to get oriented to the house, provide a place to hang their coats, and direct them efficiently to the “public” rooms of the house. There’s a place for splendor and majesty of course, but that’s best left to the grand homes.
Hey, I didn’t invent this stuff…
Other cultures also place a high value on the design of a home’s entry. The Ancient Chinese art of Feng Shui dictates exactly where a home’s front door should be to attract good Chi (energy flow) and block harmful Chi. It’s a complex relationship between compass position, proximity to other structures, roads and paths, access to sunlight, and views to the outside. According to Feng Shui, a well-placed and well-designed front door can enhance luck, promote business success, and increase the health of the occupants. Although deeply rooted in ancient culture, much of Feng Shui is simply good design practice that we can apply to the design of the ways that we enter and exit our own homes.
Welcome Home To… Your Laundry Room?
Although the introduction of the automobile has had a profound impact on the way we enter our houses, it was the popularization of the attached garage in the mid 20th century that eventually relegated the traditional front door and porch to ceremonial status. Ironically, we rarely use the impressive entries we build in our homes. We’re content to enter our own house through the garage – often through a laundry room or mudroom. Is that what we’ve worked so hard for? Providing grand entry experiences for our few visitors or the annual holiday gatherings while we trudge daily through the dirty laundry? The owners of the house should be welcomed into their sanctuary through a space designed to greet them, to acknowledge them, and to recognize them as the reason it exists.
On a recent pre-design tour through a remodeling client’s home, the client and I entered through the garage and laundry room, moving aside bicycles, toys, and baskets of dirty clothes to get into the kitchen. She hadn’t thought about it, but I suggested we consider reworking the way she enters her house as a part of the remodeling. She agreed, and the result is a small but well appointed “owner’s entry hall” directly off of the garage and connecting to the kitchen and breakfast room. The laundry and mudrooms are adjacent to but closed off from this entry. She’s already told me how much she enjoys the new space and how it brightens her spirits at the end of the day.
Knock, knock…
But what about the front door itself? The front door is at once a bridge and a barrier. Should it be big, small, opaque, transparent, rectangular or arched? I prefer a big door wide enough to make the furniture movers happy – at least 42 inches wide. Because the front door will be used every day, durability and resistance to weather damage are important. A bit of glass in the door allows permits residents to see someone outside without allowing the stranger a view of the interior. A lot of glass in the door is less private, but brings in more light from the outside.
Although a wood door is susceptible to damage from the elements, it always looks better than metal or fiberglass imitations. And if properly protected with an overhanging roof, a quality wood door should last the life of the house.
An Open And Shut Case
The front door is one part of many elements that make up an entry design. A successful entry sequence starts in the public realm of the street and moves through a sequence of spaces on its way to the private realm of the house. The design of the entry communicates with the neighborhood and is scaled appropriately to the rest of the house.
That “hole-in-the-wall” is much more than just a way in and a way out.
Winter Motorcycle Riding Gear Options
That’s it. It’s time to accept it. Winter’s here. I don’t care how much everyone is screaming about Global Warming. Cold is cold. And when you’re riding during the winter it feels that much colder. Wind chill is a bitch. Compound the factor of speed. The faster you go the more the temperature drops. So the main idea behind this months TAB. How to survive the winter on your motorcycle.
Some of you silly bastards like cold weather. I’ll never understand that. Maybe it’s because I’m a skinny white boy. Not much blubber to hold in the heat. I live in the south for a reason. But even in the dirty dirty it gets cold once in a while. When the temp drops and the wind picks up I’m grabbing every piece of heavy clothing I can wear at once. If I look like the little brother from a Christmas story when I’m done, so be it. Hell, I’ll wear my underoo’s on the outside if it’ll keep my ass warm. Maybe that’s a bit extreme.
For those of us hardcore (read: stupid) enough to ride year round we need to get a little creative when thinking of how to keep warm while riding in the winter months. Ok, so we all ride fighters and are not exactly particular about having fairing’s. So to get around our stubbornness we need to try and break the wind as much as possible.
Hands, being the first line of defense. Winter gloves are usually a good idea. Something with Gore-Tex or Thinsulate is a plus. Just about every major motorcycle apparel manufacturer offers a winter glove. Most can be had for under $80 with varying stages of protection and insulation from the elements. But aside from going out and buying a name brand glove. There are other steps you can take before you shell out some dough on specialty gloves. Take a run down to either the local grocer, hardware, or auto parts store and pick up a box of disposable latex gloves. These are great for holding in your natural body heat. And because they are form fitting, you can wear them inside your riding gloves as extra insulation. Some people may have a problem with latex. In which case, a sporting goods store or outdoor outlet carry glove liners. Moving up the sleeve, your wrists are prone to windblast. Even if you wear full gauntlet gloves, when in the riding position and moving around your sleeves can creep up and let in the wind. Try a pair of wristbands. A definite cheap trick for keeping the wind out of your sleeves.
As far as your upper body is concerned. This is going to take the brunt of the cold. Lack of a windscreen puts you right out there for old man winter to lay into you with a constant body blow. Heavy shirts are a must, obviously. But too many of these at once cannot only be uncomfortable, but restrict movement. Thermal shirts are always a plus. Combined with a sweater and lined jacket. But try some of those cool max shirts as a base to your layers. Anything to wick away moisture from your body is going to keep you that much warmer. If your jacket lets through wind in certain areas try and pin point them from the inside. Seams, vents, perforation. The fix for this is one that holds the world together. Duct tape. Yup, patch them up on the inside so the breeze doesn’t make its way through. Plus, if you find yourself needing a piece for a quick fix on the road. there you go.
Lastly, a thin nylon windbreaker under the jacket can be a great help. Or even your rain jacket over top.
Your head and face are super sensitive. Good full-face lids with closable vents are always the way to go. If you’re in an area that gets lots of snow and super low temps, you may want to look into snowmobile helmets for the winter. The ones with heated visors would be a great option. Of course one of the most common ways to keep your head warm is wearing a beanie under your lid. If that’s too thick for a comfortable fit, try the sporting goods and ski shops for balaclava’s. The ones made of nylon are typically very thin. If you can get one that fits around your neck and face you’re that much ahead of the game. If you want to be super biker, there’s always the classic bandanna too. This will at least keep the wind off your face and your breath will keep your face warm. Keep breath mints handy though. One more cheap trick for cutting down fog and retaining heat. If your helmet doesn’t offer a breath deflector you can make one out of duct tape. Double up the tape and form it to fit your face. Then tape it right to the inside of the chin bar. Just be sure not to leave any adhesive exposed. Most of us don’t need our mustaches waxed.
The feet and knees are always in the breeze. Ski socks are a definite plus. The longer the better too. Insulated boots are really the only way to go.
The less wind that can get in the better. A great piece of gear I found was MX knee and shin guards. These are similar to Hockey shin guards.
Plastic caps with foam padding and fabric liners. Also makes for another safety alternative. The cool part about these is they are thin enough to wear under loose fitting pants. The plastic blocks the wind very well while the foam helps to retain heat. These are fairly inexpensive too. They can be had for under $40. Some even under $25. For the rest of your lower extremities, double up on pants. Sweat pants, Track pants, thermals, etc.
Of course there’s always the option of heated riding gear. These can get pricey but if you plan to ride in very cold climates, it’s probably a smart investment. The cheaper method is the hand warmer packs. They’re fairly cheap and some last up to 8 hours. If you plan on doing some long riding, I would suggest getting some for the trip. You can put them in your shoes to keep your feet warm, in your gloves to help out your hands and any place else you feel is subjected to direct cold.
So now that you look like a reincarnation of the Michelin Man, what can we do to the bike that will help you out with out totally goobering it up?
Well, again, anything that can block the wind will help. Like stated earlier, your hands are the first line of defense. Dirtbike style hand guards will keep some of the wind off your mitts. If you want to keep them toasty you can invest in some grip heaters also. Now Grip heaters are a bit limited as they really only work the palm of your hand. With the hand guards in place as well your fingers will thank you. Plus, if your bike has that kind of ruff and tumble look going for it, they’ll fit right in.
Another, idea that struck me. Heated seats. This is actually a fairly simple idea. You can pull them from any factory-equipped car. Try the local junkyards. Just make sure they can bench test them before you walk out the door. You’ll want the thermostat control with this, which can be mounted under the tail for adjustment while riding. Basically, heated seats are no more then a heating pad element that sits under the upholstery, a top the padding. The heating elements average about 100-140 degrees F. I did a search for “Upholstery Heating Elements” and came up with some good results and even installation instructions and tutorials for various seats. Both OEM and retro fits.
The biggest help of all is going to be getting out of the wind as much as possible. And to do that, we are going to need some sort of windscreen. Now for some, they may not approve of this idea, but there is an upside. This could be a seasonal exercise in restyling your bike. I’m not saying you have to go back to full fairing’s, but stretch your creativity and maybe try a simple upper fairing. Restyle a factory upper, or make your own.
Even a small fly screen can add a little redirection. When it warms back up, you can go back to your original design. At least you survived another cold winter, and maybe… enjoyed it?!
Everyone stay warm out there, and have a safe and happy holidays.
How To Build A Patio Cover
If willing to experiment and build a Patio Cover, hammer out questions as to why you need a Patio Cover, for what purpose, whether it would be painted or made with wood, prefabricated aluminum or PVC, and if permission is required from state or city authorities. Remember that a patio is an extension of the house, generally not more than 12 feet and single-storied. The patio can be fully covered or have no cover. No special skills are required for building a Patio Cover except co-coordinating your patience, dimension of area, number of wood or aluminum panels and material required.
Begin with the necessary spade work according to weather conditions, area and usage of patio. The next step is selecting material from a comprehensive range, including polycarb panels for high summer or winter temperatures, vinyl opaque all weather conditions, vinyl translucent and clear panels suitable for use in milder weather conditions, aluminum pan roof that is cool, durable and requiring little maintenance, or insulated foam panels providing insulation for a strong low-maintenance roof. The panels should fit and install easily, and offer design flexibility. Check if the gutter system is accessible for cleaning whether it is w-pan gutter, roll form gutter or extruded gutter and valance.
For that professional Patio Cover you would need appropriate tools; you can order a complete tool kit or purchase one. The tools required would be a 3/8″” drill bit, hack saw or electric jig saw with fine-toothed blade for metal, a caulking gun, measuring tape, screwdriver, hammer, metal snips, socket and shank, crescent wrench, level, carpenter’s square, ladders, heavy duty pencils, masonry and nuts and bolts. If the patio is attached to the house then the existing support system will help cover to fit easily. For a free-standing patio the cover will have to be fitted on all four sides, depending on shape. The building instructions will guide you step by step.
How To Adjust The Parallax Settings On Your Rifle Scope
What the heck is Parallax? I asked the same thing when I first started looking to upgrade from iron sight to a good rifle scope. This guide should give you some insight into getting the best focus out of your Bushnell scope, or any other adjustable parallax scope for that matter.
Have you ever looked through a higher power scope and noticed that if you move your eye off center to the edge of the exit pupil, the reticle seems to move across the target? Well, that shift happens when the parallax setting is not properly adjusted for that distance. Some have mistaken the parallax adjustment as a focus or even a range finder, but it is neither of these. The parallax adjustment, when set properly will insure that the reticle is positioned correctly on the target; as though your crosshairs are a part of the target, unmoving, as if they were painted on, just for you. Of course if your scope is not a “target” or a “varmint hunting” rifle scope, you probably don’t need to be concerned with adjusting the parallax setting. In most hunting scopes the parallax is negligible, in fact I have a good friend that hunts regularly and he didn’t even know what I was talking about when I asked him. I don’t hunt, but I love to spend a Saturday at target practice. So to me, any small increase in accuracy is defiantly welcome.
Most of the higher power scopes, with a power of 12 or more, will have an adjustment ring at the end of the Objective bell (the end closest to the target). Usually the parallax adjustment ring has the suggested settings printed on them, so you can just dial in the range you’re shooting from. The problem is these suggested settings are rarely as accurate as they could be. So why should you go through the trouble of getting yours “just right”? Why not just use the suggested setting? Even if you’re a great shot, you could easily shrink the size of your groups by as much as 30%, just by taking the time to properly set the parallax adjustment on your scope. Many shooters don’t even realize that even with a few adjustments they could greatly affect their shooting performance. Let’s face it, the documentation that came with your scope isn’t a real blessing when it comes to learning how to use it, they just assume you already know.
Now that you have an understanding of what parallax is, it’s time to fine tune your scope for increased accuracy. I’m going to assume you have already zeroed in your scope and that it’s properly sighted in. You will need to set up your rifle so it is securely positioned on a bench. A shooting rest with a vise would be best. Dial in the suggested setting on the parallax adjustment ring for the range that you’re shooting from. Now, look through the scope and shift your eye back and forth, left and right so you can see if the crosshairs seem like they are moving across the target. Experiment with the adjustment ring until you have eliminated the illusion that your crosshairs are moving. When you think you’ve got it perfect, take a little white-out liquid paper and make a mark on the parallax adjustment ring so you’ll know where to adjust it later. Some people paint their mark or score it into the metal, but to start with I prefer something that’s not so permanent until I’m absolutely certain about the position. Next, go ahead and take three to six shots and see how your grouping has improved. Nice, huh! Don’t stop there, move your target 50 yards back and repeat the process. You might as well find the perfect settings for all the ranges that you typically shoot from in 50 yard increments.
If you’re in the market for an affordable rifle scope that will really go the distance I can recommend two models from the Banner series of the Bushnell Scopes line of rifle scopes. The 1st is Bushnell Scopes Banner 6-18×50. This is a long range target scope that is also great for varmint hunting, and it’s parallax focus can be adjusted from 10 meters to infinity. The 2nd is Bushnell Scopes Banner 6-24×40. This long range target and varmint scope features a mil-dot reticle which is my preferred style of crosshair. Both can be purchased for around $120.00, so they won’t empty your wallet. To view these and other Banner series Bushnell scopes please visit my Bushnell Scopes page.
Happy Hunting,
Review of Benchmark Fiberglass Entry Doors by Therma-Tru
Doors are not made equal. Exterior doors, such as the front door, are the most exposed to climate change and repeated use. Fiberglass is now a preferred surface material for doors because it does not rot, warp or crack like wood, nor does it rust or dent like steel. Traditional doors are a throwback to the time of exquisite handcrafting and craftsmanship but this artistry would be wasted on wood surfaces that would soon fracture and crumble too early. Benchmark fiberglass entry doors are now some of the most popular for new homes and replacement doors for old homes that once had wooden doors like mahogany or oak. These products are backed by the Therma-Tru name, pioneers in fiberglass doors, and exclusive distribution by Lowe’s stores. As wood doors are sliding from staple to next best, fiberglass doors are gaining interest. Architects and remodelers want to know how to find the right ones and make the most of those.
Benchmark fiberglass entry doors are increasingly known for achieving a balance between design and price. They are good-looking but affordable, an attractive possibility to savvy builders and homeowners who may be on a budget. Their classy designs mirror handsome doors of old but clean lines harmonize with unexpected elements like glass and metal. At the same time, their reasonable prices compete with real hardwood doors that reigned over the market with an iron hand in the past. The real test is in weathering and usage. If your location is troubled with fluctuating outdoor conditions, or if it is a high-traffic area requiring a new door, you should have a realistic budget with a ceiling for a top-of-the-line product. For a low-traffic area, especially inside the home, you may opt for something charming and mid-priced.
The promise of a long-lasting, energy-saving product that offers peace of mind adds to the appeal of Benchmark doors. They feature a “leak protection pad” that has been designed like a special corner pocket to block air and moisture where it is most expected to penetrate. Dual bulbs and dual fins make a heavy-duty door bottom sweep that further seals up against air and water infiltration. These enhance the quality of energy efficiency attached to fiberglass, which provides three to five times more insulation and lets natural light inside homes. The door sill has been developed to resist rotting and corrosion, with a cap using non-wood composite material and adjustable hardware using stainless steel. Greater resistance to rotting and insect damage can be had with the optional jamb, primed and ready for painting. An optional three-point locking system promises increased security. It has also been constructed from stainless steel and is resistant to corrosion.
Therma-Tru Doors, which owns the Benchmark by Therma-Tru brand, specializes in doors made from fiberglass rather than steel, composite material or wood, specifically, pre-hung entry doors and door systems. It manufactured the first fiberglass entry doors more than 25 years ago. With Benchmark fiberglass entry doors, the company is working on establishing an expertise in other aspects of the door business on a par with veteran manufacturers such as Masonite, Milgard and Feather River. An order delivery system and aftersales service are examples of those other aspects that have great impact on buyers. As Benchmark entry doors are pre-hung, you can choose do-it-yourself installation or professional installation, either by exclusive carriers Lowe’s or a company you have contracted. Unless you are skilled, installing a door yourself would most likely be troublesome. If the door area must adjust to a particular architecture, design or age of the house, you should probably obtain a professional installation service on your own.
Rustic Country Decor – How to Decorate Cottage Style Homes
Rustic country decor and how to decorate cottage style homes are extensions of American country style decorating. In addition, traditions are borrowed from French, English and some Swedish country looks. Rustic country decor can be defined as coarse, charmingly simple, unfussy, unfinished and yet with endearing qualities. Rustic country decorating includes the use of natural woods, aged surfaces, rough finishes and simple lines. Cottage style homes are comfortable, modest, quaint homes that can be made of thick stone or log wood.
Floors in rustic country decor and cottage style homes are made with stone or wood materials. Wooden floors were traditionally constructed with boards that were bare and simply waxed and hand-polished (high-gloss varnishes did not exist). Sometimes the boards were painted with light colors. If you like floor coverings, use oriental rugs and throws for visual warmth and color. Rustic country decor is about handcrafted objects, simplicity, furnishings that you enjoy and connecting back to nature.
Rustic cottage furniture is commonly made with pine and perhaps painted with hand-painted designs such as flowers, birds, animals, country scenery or leaves. Use ladderback chairs, rocking chairs, benches, wicker furniture and Windsor chairs. A large rectangular table made of pine is a good option for your kitchen or dining room table. To give your furniture a rustic look, brush a coat of paint on the furniture piece, then rub most of the paint off. After it dries, apply wood stain unevenly for an older weathered appearance. It will be perfect and rustic looking!
Baskets can be used to store wood, pine cones, flowers, plants and needlework. Brass candle holders, oil or kerosene lamps, sconces, hurricane lamps, tin lanterns, recessed ceiling fixtures or a vintage wrought-iron or metal chandelier provide successful lighting for rustic country decor and cottage style homes. Colors used in rustic country decor or cottage style homes are neutral tones ranging from white to bone, earth tones, red barn, blues and greens.
For rustic country decor in the kitchen, use open shelves, hutches, buffets, plate racks and cupboards for storage. Often, country kitchen storage is crammed with stoneware pots, plain glazed earthenware and glass jars. Kitchen pots should be made of copper, steel or cast iron — cookware tends to be large and plain. Use open shelving in the rustic country kitchen to display plates, dishes and dinnerware collections. Natural woods, light colors and bright fabrics work great for window treatments. Adding a rustic butcher block island creates a wonderful visual effect as well as provides useful functionality.
A rustic country decor bathroom has neutral tones or soft colored walls, antique-looking lighting, and wooden antiques or antique reproduction cabinets and vanity. Knowing how to decorate cottage style homes and bathrooms can result in creating a calm and elegant atmosphere. Clawfoot tubs, pedestal sinks, country style antique brass faucets and old-fashioned country cabinets provide the kind of atmosphere that makes you want to spend time there. Plain white towels are recommended instead of patterned or bright modern patterns. Use wicker or wire baskets to keep your sponges, loofas and shampoos handy near the tub or shower.
Understanding how to decorate cottage style homes means including items like quilts, antique furniture or reproductions, flea-market pieces, trunks, chests, armoires, stenciling, wallpaper, adirondack chairs, flower wreaths and bistro chairs. These types of elements give cottage style homes the kind of rustic country decor that is simpler, very personal and warmly inviting.
Whether in a seaside setting, an urban environment, a countryside location or a wooded mountain retreat, cottage style homes are cozy and unassuming, combining the past with the present. Read all you can find and learn what creating the rustic country cottage means to you no matter where it’s located. Enjoy expressing your personality and showing what the definition of home means to you.
Copyright 2005 InfoSearch Publishing
What is Success and How Do We Achieve It?
To be clear about what success is must be the first step to achieving success.
So far, the best definition I have come across is: “Success is the completion of anything intended.” In other words success is finishing what you planned to do.
Even robbing a bank is a kind of success if that is what you wished to do. However, you probably did not intend to end up in prison!
The above definition of success shines a light on failure and success. Make a plan and follow it and you will have succeeded. Make a plan and do not follow it and you will have failed.
This gives a yard stick for judging every day of our lives. We can say at the end of the day “I have failed” or “I have succeeded.”
This may seem very obvious but it is amazing that only about 85% of the human race end up doing what they intended.
I asked several people what they thought success was. One person said that “Success is making loads of money.” Another said that success is “Achieving your goals”. Some one else said that success is “Fulfilling your potential”. An interesting answer was that success is “Making others jealous”.
Brian Tracy agrees with the connection between success and goals. He has said “Success is goals, and all else is commentary.” Tracy believes that people with clear, written goals, accomplish far more in a shorter period of time than people without them.
Stuart Goldsmith in “The Midas Method” has an important section on how to set goals so that they are achieved using the full power of the subconscious mind.
Maria Nemeth gives this definition of success: “Doing what you said you would do, with ease”.
“Doing what you said you would do” is currently not achieved by the majority of the human race especially politicians! Doing it with ease is achieved by even fewer and requires making the most of the subconscious mind.
Jim Rohn argues that success is just a few simple disciplines practised daily.
The power of daily discipline is HUGE. Because the discipline is practised daily the effect is cumulative. The good practice is carried out 365 times a year with, perhaps, a few lapses.
It cannot fail to have tremendous influence. Once the discipline becomes a daily habit, it can be forgotten about until the rewards start coming in.
The writer who writes every day has written well over 300 pages by the end of the year. If he or she does not write every day they lose momentum and inspiration. If they keep up the writing (even just a few words a day) a magnet for relevant thoughts develops.
Recently a Liverpool student of American media studies applied for 600 jobs and received only one interview which he failed. He decided to write a novel. He determined to complete ten pages a day. He worked in the evenings at a dead end job to make money and then wrote until about 5 in the morning at his novel which has now become famous. It also looks like becoming a Hollywood blockbuster film.
He points out that if you write only one page a day for 100 days you can write a screen play. He wrote his novel by studying the structure of two other novels and noticing how they were structured and wrote his screenplay after studying video of films and noticing how long each scene lasted before there was a change.
I can’t remember his name or the name of his book as I just happened to hear part of his interview on television.
The practice of daily disciplines alone can change our lives totally. Another benefit of daily disciplines is that they quickly create habits and habits create character.
A great quote by Jim Ryun, the American Athlete, is as follows
“Motivation is what gets you started.
Habit is what keeps you going”
Another brilliant quote is:
“Try not to become a man of success but rather try to become a man of value.”
Albert Einstein
The next quote says more or less the same thing:
“Success usually comes to those who are too busy to be looking for it.” Henry David Thoreau
Many would argue that success is not about making money but about developing oneself into a person who is valuable to others.
However, this quite often will lead to making money because people will pay for value. Any one who is very good at their job can usually command whatever pay they wish.
Adam Hollioake is one of the most successful English county cricket captains. He realised what is important in life when his brother Ben was killed in a car accident in Perth Australia. Adam learned that he should be kind to people and have fun and “that’s what life is about.”
His view of success in cricket is not necessarily winning. He is not afraid to lose a cricket match. He is only concerned that his team put 100% effort into the game. He comments:
“If we do put that effort in we usually win anyway”.
Success then is putting in 100% effort whatever the results. More often than not, however, the results will be excellent.
Michael Angier has a great definition of success.
“Success is the result of steadily taking action on our most important goals. When we consistently focus our energies and our efforts upon what matters most, we can’t help but be successful”.
Angier also admires Ralph Waldo Emerson’s comments on success:
“To laugh often and much; to win the respect of intelligent people and the affection of children; to earn the appreciation of honest critics and endure the betrayal of false friends; to appreciate beauty; to find the best in others; to leave the world a bit better, whether by healthy child, a garden patch, or a redeemed social condition; to know even one life has breathed easier because you have lived; this is to have succeeded.”
What are the causes of failure and success?
William James, the great American psychologist, puts failure down to lack of faith in one self
“There is but one cause of human failure. And that is man’s lack of faith in his true self.”
Faith in one self is a huge part of success. Stuart Goldsmith in “The Midas Method” talks about two kinds of belief that are necessary for success. You must believe that you deserve to succeed and you must believe that you have the ability to succeed.
Another big cause of success is discipline.
“The ability to discipline yourself to delay gratification in the short term in order to enjoy greater rewards in the long term is the indispensable prerequisite for success.” Brian Tracy
Another cause is the willingness to try to succeed even if the possiblity of success is remote.
“Far away in the sunshine are my highest aspirations. I may not reach them, but I can look up and see the beauty, believe in them and try to follow where they lead.”
Louisa May Alcott (1832-1888) American Writer
My computer guru, Danny believes that you should hold on to your dream in all circumstances and never let go. Grab hold of your vision with an iron fist and even if you are down on your luck and in the gutter never give up.
Danny himself has held on to a dream for 22 years. His dream is to develop the best languages translator in the world.
It does not matter if you are 72 – grab hold of your dream. Actually visualize your hand holding on to that dream. Too many people are worn down by life and give up their dreams.
Every dream is personal but the principle is the same. You are an idiot if you let go. You have to have a reason for living. Set yourself a goal and never let go until you die.
There is nothing you can’t do. If you can’t swim 10 lengths without a rest, train for a few months and you will be able to swim 50 lengths.
Danny’s comments about swimming reminded me about how little is taught at school about how training can improve your abilities.
At my school in the Isle of Man, there was an annual half mile swim in the sea. I knew I would drown if I attempted this but no one ever suggested that I start training hard so that I would be capable of completing the swim.
I was just classified as someone who could not do the swim. It did not occur to me that through determined training I would be able to do what I could not previously do.
When Danny was young he was a skinny weakling. But one day he decided that this was not a good thing. He filled out and did some weight training and set up his own fitness, strength and flexibility routine.
He performs this every other day. This avoids the boredom of a daily routine. He does 200 situps, 30-50 leg raises and three or four sets of 20-30 bench presses.
He also does 2 sets of 20 or 30 squats with dumbells to develop leg power. The dumbbells avoid the danger of overbalancing with a barbell across your shoulders. There is also little likelihood that you will drop the dumbbells on children or family pets! Dumbells allow for greater control than barbells.
Danny’s advice for success is to do something. If in doubt, read a book. The worst thing you can do is sit on your backside watching TV. If you do, nothing will ever happen. He notes the hypnotic effect of TV on the spectators. Danny seldom ever watches TV.
Danny also is impressed by Arnold Schwarzenegger who has just been elected Governor of California. If Arnold wants something, he does what is necessary to get that thing. If he had to eat 50 mars bars, he would eat them. If he had to stand stark naked on his head in a field for half an hour he would.
This is an example to us all. If you have to put stamps on thousands of envelopes to send out your direct mail sales letters, you just have to do it.
The basic principle is that you have to do what is required. Some things require certain actions to achieve them and you have to do them whether you like doing them or not.
It is no good saying I want to be Governor of California but I don’t want to do any public speaking or travel on the campaign trail or be friendly to thousands of people you don’t like. You have to pick up babies and smile at people you may not like.
If you want to be rich you have to do those things which will make you rich. It’s no good saying “I don’t really want to do it.” Danny gives himself a virtual smack round the head every time he is tempted to give up on his projects.
Some people think they will make money by taking short cuts like suing people or fraud. The world would be a much better place if people just got on with doing what they had to do.
Many successful people stress the importance of action in achieving success.
Michael Masterson of the Ezine “Early to Rise” writes:”Action is the key to success, and failure to act is the reason most people will never achieve the kind of success they dream about”
Another approach to achieving success is to stay cool about it. Just get on with doing what you think is important and what you love to do.
“Don’t aim for success if you want it; just do what you love and believe in, and it will come naturally.” Sir David Frost
Elvis Presley gave his cousin Donna some advice to help her achieve her goals for the future. It seems good advice to me:
Donna’s best memory of Elvis was when she was 18 and she spoke to him one on one. He asked her about her plans for the future and told her she could achieve anything she wanted “so long as you have faith in God;have faith in yourself; work hard and never let anyone tell you, you can’t do something”.
Elvis himself had plenty of discouragement which he successfully ignored. The later part of his life was not too successful but as Donna commented, we should focus on what he did achieve which was amazing.
Peter Vidmar explains how he achieved success at the Olympic Games:
“There’s only two things I had to do to win the Olympic gold: Train when I wanted to, and train when I didn’t.”
This is possibly my favourite quote of all time. It sums up the essence of success and the will power and discipline necessary to achieve it. Sometimes training will be easy but sometimes it will take effort because one really does not feel like training. This is simple and beautifully easy to understand.
Another quote I like is concerned with the kind of success which depends on people liking your work or product. Don’t worry about whether they will like your work. Just do your best and leave the liking or disliking up to them.
“Success has a simple formula: ‘Do your best and people may like it’”.
Sam Ewing
Any success involves some kind of cost; usually some boring work is involved as suggested in the following quote. The word ‘drudgery’ sums this kind of work up exactly. Almost any kind of business involves marketing and marketing is the last thing many businessmen enjoy doing.
“Success is the child of drudgery and perseverance. It cannot be coaxed or bribed; pay the price and it is yours”.
Orison Swett Marden, 1850-1924.
Mike Litman comes up with golden statements frequently. Here is just one of them:
“The biggest secret of success in life is: You don’t have to get it right; you just have to get it going. Perfectionism can kill success. We never get going because we are always waiting to get everything just right. Instead, let’s get going.”
One success breeds another. Bobby Robson, now over 70, is one of Britain’s most successful managers. He should know what creates success. He recently commented about his team’s performances:
“Success breeds success”
This makes sense. Write one successful book and you will have the confidence to write another. A lady over 70 wrote a book about overcoming the pain of arthritis. It was a huge success to her total amazement and made hundreds of thousands of dollars. Not surprisingly she has now written two more books.
Success is a key goal for most people but it helps to have a clear idea of what success means to you. I hope this article will have shed some light on possible definitions of success and provided some ideas about how you can achieve your kind of success. 2500
Attaching Wood To Concrete
A very important tip is to use the right tool for each method. When you’re dealing with concrete and masonry, you’re obviously dealing with extremely hard material. Woodworking hammers are too light and steel drill bits too soft. The concrete is also brittle. Hard sharp chips are likely to fly out as you work on it, so always wear safety goggles to protect your eyes.
Nails. Nailing wood directly to concrete is probably the simplest, quickest and cheapest method. Unfortunately, once driven, these nails may jar loose from a few hammer blows to the side of the board. So, they are better for temporary fastening.
You’ll usually find two types of special nails at the hardware store, cut nails and hardened concrete nails. Drive nails with a 2- to 4-lb. hammer. Actually, it’s very hard to drive nails into cured (hardened) concrete, even with a 4-lb. hammer. They work best in concrete that’s only cured for a few days.
Nails can be quite effective in mortar joints, however. Mortar is softer than either the concrete block or brick, and it holds nails fairly well. For best results, drive them right along the joint edge. And here’s a professional tip: for improved holding power, run a bead of glue along the backside of your wood before nailing it up.
Predrilled Fasteners. There is a family of fasteners that can be driven into a predrilled hole. These not only fasten wood to concrete, but will fasten just about anything else to concrete as well.
They install easily, simply drill through the wood and into the concrete and drive the fastener.
Drilling the hole is the only difficult part. Use a carbide tip bit. Because these holes are relatively small, your standard 1/4-inch or 3/8 inch power drill can do an adequate job, although each hole may take several minutes to bore. A hammer drill, however, will drill your hole in a matter of seconds. A hammer drill is expensive, but they can be rented. If you have a lot of holes to drill, they’ll save a lot of time.
It’s a good idea to glue your wood to the concrete or masonry with this system as well, especially when using screws. Once screws are jarred loose, they may not retighten.
Expansion Fasteners. These fasteners are simple, effective and can carry a heavy load. They may be retightened should they be jarred loose.
Because they require a larger hole, you really need a hammer drill to bore the concrete. If you can’t buy, borrow or rent one, try boring a 1/8 inch hole first with a carbide bit. Then use progressively larger carbide bits until you reach the proper size.
Buy these fasteners long enough to wedge into the concrete as deep as the wood is thick. Drill your hole an extra 1/4 inch deep, since the bolt draws back slightly when tightened.
Power Fasteners. These are extremely fast, powerful and dangerous. They are primarily professional tools which any untrained homeowner should steer clear of until they fully understanding the safety precautions. With power fasteners you can quickly nail into just about any concrete or masonry surface. Both the air and the power-actuated systems drive hardened nails through the wood and solidly into the concrete in one shot. Flying metal, wood or concrete are certain hazards, so eye protection is essential.
Glue. Over the past ten years construction adhesives have improved and become more specialized. You can securely glue just about anything to a wall now. Since glued wood must be held tightly in place until the glue sets, it’s handy to use an adhesive with another fastening system for mutual reinforcement; the glue dampens the vibration and jarring that may weaken the fasteners, and the fasteners hold the wood tightly until the glue sets.
Proper preparation ensures a good glue bond. Be sure the wood and the concrete surfaces are clean and dry. Loose paint, surface chalking or moisture will cause the bond to release. When working with a very rough surface, apply a generous bead to bridge the wider gaps between the wood and concrete.